What is Wagyu Beef? A Butcher's Honest Guide

"Wagyu" is the most abused word in the American meat industry. I've seen it slapped on $15 burgers made from cattle with trace Japanese genetics, on steaks that wouldn't grade above Choice on the USDA scale, and on restaurant menus where "wagyu" is purely a marketing tool to justify a higher price.

As someone who's been cutting and selling meat for 40 years — and who has handled genuine Japanese A5 wagyu, American fullblood wagyu, and everything in between — I want to give you the honest, no-BS guide to what wagyu actually is, what it isn't, and how to spend your money wisely.

What Wagyu Actually Means

"Wagyu" literally translates from Japanese as "Japanese cattle" (wa = Japanese, gyu = cattle). It refers to four specific breeds native to Japan:

1. Japanese Black (Kuroge Washu) — Over 90% of all wagyu. This is the breed behind Kobe beef, Matsusaka beef, and the vast majority of A5 wagyu you've seen in photos. Highest marbling genetics.
2. Japanese Brown (Akaushi/Akage Washu) — Sometimes called "Red Wagyu." Leaner than Black but still well-marbled. Known for a cleaner, more pronounced beef flavor. Kumamoto and Kochi prefectures.
3. Japanese Shorthorn (Nihon Tankaku Washu) — Rare. Leaner, rich in amino acids, particularly glutamic acid (umami). Northern Honshu.
4. Japanese Polled (Mukaku Washu) — Essentially extinct. Fewer than 200 animals exist.

What makes these breeds extraordinary is genetics. Over centuries of isolated breeding in Japan, these cattle developed an extreme genetic predisposition to deposit intramuscular fat (marbling). This isn't about special massages, beer diets, or classical music — those are myths. It's selective breeding.

The Japanese Grading System

Japan's beef grading system is more detailed than the American system. Two components:

Yield Grade: A (above average), B (average), C (below average) — how much usable meat.

Quality Grade (1–5): Based on four factors:

• Marbling — measured on the BMS scale (1–12)
• Meat color and brightness
• Fat color and quality
• Firmness and texture

The quality grade is determined by the lowest individual score. So even if marbling is BMS 12 (maximum), a deficiency in color or texture will downgrade the overall score.

A5 is the highest possible grade: excellent yield (A) and the top quality score (5, requiring BMS 8 or higher). When people say "A5 wagyu," this is what they mean — the top of the top.

BMS: The Number That Matters

The Beef Marbling Standard (BMS) runs from 1 to 12. Here's how it roughly maps:

BMS Score	Roughly Equivalent To	What It Looks Like
1–2	USDA Select	Minimal marbling
3–4	USDA Choice	Moderate marbling
5–6	USDA Prime / Low A4	Above average marbling
7–8	A4 range	Heavy marbling, still more red than white
9–10	A5	Dramatic marbling, approaching 50/50
11–12	Top-tier A5	More white than red, extraordinary

The best USDA Prime beef typically falls at BMS 5–6. That's the starting point for understanding how far the wagyu scale goes beyond what most Americans have ever tasted.

Wagyu Outside Japan

In the 1990s, a small number of Japanese wagyu cattle were exported to the United States, Australia, and a few other countries before Japan banned further live exports. These genetics form the foundation of wagyu programs worldwide.

American Wagyu

Here's where it gets complicated. "American Wagyu" can mean several things:

• Fullblood (100% wagyu genetics): Both parents are registered purebred wagyu tracing back to Japanese cattle. Rare and expensive. This is the closest you'll get to Japanese wagyu without buying from Japan.
• F1 Crossbred (50% wagyu): One wagyu parent crossed with another breed (usually Angus). This is what MOST "American Wagyu" actually is. The animal is half wagyu, half Angus.
• F2 (75%), F3 (87.5%), F4 (93.75%): Each generation crossed back to wagyu increases the percentage.

The quality difference between F1 and fullblood is significant. An F1 animal might reach BMS 6–8 with excellent feeding. A fullblood can reach BMS 9–11. But at the grocery store, both can legally be labeled "American Wagyu" without disclosing the breed percentage.

The label problem: When you see "American Wagyu" at a restaurant or store, it's almost always F1 (50%). Not bad beef — often quite good — but not the same as fullblood, and absolutely not the same as Japanese A5.

Australian Wagyu

Australia has one of the most developed wagyu industries outside Japan, with both crossbred and fullblood programs. Some Australian producers — like Blackmore — have developed reputations for wagyu that rivals Japanese quality. The Australian Wagyu Association is also more rigorous about tracking genetics than the American industry.

How to Avoid Fake Wagyu

Here are the red flags:

1. "Wagyu" with no additional information. No BMS score? No breed percentage? No specific program? Be skeptical. Reputable sellers provide details.
2. "Kobe-style" or "Kobe-inspired." This is marketing-speak for "not Kobe." Real Kobe beef has strict certification.
3. "Wagyu" ground beef or burgers under $15/lb. Possible with trim from lower-BMS animals, but more likely marketing inflation.
4. "A5" on a restaurant menu without sourcing details. If they can't tell you the prefecture, farm, or provide documentation, proceed with extreme caution.
5. Prices that seem too good to be true. Genuine A5 Japanese wagyu is $80–$200+/lb. If someone's selling "A5" for $30/lb, it's not A5.

What Should You Buy?

Here's my honest recommendation:

• For an extraordinary splurge: Japanese A5 from a verified importer. Buy a small piece (6–8 oz), slice thin, sear briefly, eat with salt. It's a once-in-a-while experience that's genuinely unlike anything else. Retailers like The Meatery source verified Japanese A5 with full traceability.
• For regular premium eating: American fullblood wagyu (BMS 8–10) offers 80% of the A5 experience at a lower price point. Ask for BMS scores.
• For great everyday beef: USDA Prime or upper-Choice Angus is fantastic and doesn't require the wagyu price tag. Don't let wagyu marketing make you feel like Prime isn't excellent — it absolutely is.
• American Wagyu (F1) at a fair price: If it's honestly labeled and fairly priced ($20–$35/lb for steaks), F1 crossbred is very good beef. Just don't pay A5 prices for it.

Eating A5 Wagyu

If you do invest in genuine A5, please don't treat it like a normal steak:

• Small portions: 3–4 oz is a full serving. A5 is 40–50%+ fat by weight. More than a few ounces becomes overwhelming.
• Thin slices: Cut 1/4" thick or thinner.
• Minimal cooking: Sear 15–30 seconds per side in a hot pan. The fat melts at body temperature — it needs almost no cooking.
• Salt only: Maybe a squeeze of lemon or a touch of wasabi. Nothing else. The beef speaks for itself.
• Don't waste it on a grill: The fat melts and drips away. A flat cooking surface preserves it.

Wagyu, when it's the real thing, is a genuinely transcendent food experience. The problem isn't the product — it's the marketing machine that's diluted the word until it barely means anything. Know what you're buying, know what you're paying for, and you'll never be disappointed.